DIY Electric Go-Kart Build

E-Kart

Shopping cart frame. Scooter drivetrain. Built from what was already there.

Technical Specifications

Every subsystem on the kart, from the salvaged scooter drivetrain to the dashboard electronics, documented as it's actually built.

Drivetrain

Motor Controller Curtis 1228-3435 — 36V, 70A, regenerative braking
Motor Brushed DC, ~1000W, 36V
Power Delivery Chain drive via reduction gearbox

Battery System

Configuration Dual 36V Li-ion packs, manually switched (not run in parallel)
Switching Manual selector switch between packs
Switch Protection Capacitors + Schottky diodes prevent power interruption while switching

Power Electronics

Lighting Supply DC-DC buck converter, 36V → 12V
Logic Supply DC-DC buck converter, 36V → 5V for the microcontroller
Monitoring Per-battery current and voltage monitoring
Protection 20A circuit breaker

Dashboard

Speedometer GPS-based, analog-style gauge, 0–80 km/h
Status Display Small OLED display
Start Control Illuminated push-start button
Ignition Discreet key switch
Horn Standard 12V horn

Lighting

Underglow Underbody LED strip
Front Headlights
Rear Rear lights
Signals Turn signals
Control All lighting switched through a relay module driven by the microcontroller

Cooling & Safety

Battery Monitoring Waterproof temperature sensor, continuous monitoring
Motor Monitoring Waterproof temperature sensor, continuous monitoring
Controller Monitoring Waterproof temperature sensor, continuous monitoring

Chassis

Frame Repurposed shopping-cart frame
Stance Lowered
Tires Four off-road tires

Performance Targets

Top Speed ~30 km/h
Incline Capability ~10%
Rated Combined Weight ~100 kg

Build Log

A running, dated record of build milestones — newest entries first.

  1. Lighting and underglow test

    Ran the full lighting circuit for the first time: underbody LED strip, headlights, rear lights, and turn signals, all switched through a relay module controlled by the microcontroller instead of being wired directly to switches.

    First power-up went cleanly — no shorts, no relay chatter, and current draw on the 12V rail stayed within what the buck converter is rated for with everything on at once.

    Still to do: mount the off-road tires, fit the horn's final bracket, and start road-testing for the ~30 km/h / ~10% incline / ~100 kg performance targets.

  2. Dashboard electronics installed

    The dashboard cluster is in: a GPS-based speedometer with an analog-style 0–80 km/h gauge face, a small OLED display for status readouts, an illuminated push-start button, a discreet key switch, and the horn.

    The 36V-to-5V buck converter now powers the microcontroller driving the OLED and gauge logic, and the 36V-to-12V converter is feeding the button illumination and horn for now, ahead of the lighting circuit going in.

    Waterproof temperature sensors for the battery, motor, and controller are wired back to the same microcontroller so their readings can show up on the OLED status display.

  3. Dual-battery switch wired with protection diodes

    Wired in the manual switch that selects between the two 36V Li-ion battery packs. The packs are never run in parallel — the switch always routes power from exactly one pack at a time.

    To avoid a power interruption at the controller during the moment of switching, we added capacitors across the supply rails plus Schottky diodes on each pack's output. Bench testing confirmed the controller stays powered through a switch-over instead of browning out.

    Also added inline current and voltage monitoring taps for each pack ahead of the switch, feeding into the dashboard electronics planned for the next update.

  4. Controller and motor mounted

    The Curtis 1228-3435 motor controller and the brushed DC motor — both salvaged from the donor mobility scooter — are now mounted to the frame.

    The motor drives the rear axle through its original chain and reduction gearbox, relocated and re-aligned to suit the shopping-cart frame's geometry. Controller wiring is routed and secured but not yet connected to the battery system.

    Bench-tested the motor directly off a lab supply to confirm it still spins freely and draws a sane no-load current before committing to final wiring.

  5. Frame stripped and prepped

    The shopping-cart frame that forms the basis of the build has been fully stripped down: wheels, basket, and folding mechanism removed, and the bare frame cleaned up and treated for rust.

    With the frame on the bench, we mapped out where the lowered stance will sit relative to the axle mounts, and confirmed there's enough clearance for the drivetrain components salvaged from the mobility scooter.

    Next up: mounting the motor and controller.